Rena Bianca
A 3-minute walk from the houses, heading down to the sea.
The flagship beach. Pale, fine sand and a gradually shelving seabed; supervised and equipped.
Tip: The best moment: just after sunrise, or at sunset.
City guide
Santa Teresa di Gallura
A border town between sea and granite, where Sardinia greets Corsica
Overlooking the Bocche di Bonifacio strait, Santa Teresa di Gallura is the northernmost point of Sardinia. A town of fishermen and smugglers that has become — without losing its soul — one of the most beautiful coastal destinations in the Mediterranean. In this part of Sardinia, the beaches are countless and varied: even in mid-August, with a little local knowledge, there's always a quiet corner to be found.
01
Beaches not to miss
Capo Testa
About 4 km west, 10 minutes by car; park near the lighthouse, then on foot.
A granite headland with hidden coves among rocks shaped by the wind. A lunar, almost sacred atmosphere.
Tip: The Valle della Luna, reachable on foot from the lighthouse car park, is unmissable.
La Licciola — Valle dell'Erica
About 8 km east towards Palau, 12 minutes by car.
Among the most beautiful beaches in the area, with deep water close to shore — great for swimming. Equipped beach.
Tip: A favourite for swimming — perfect at the end of the day.
Conca Verde
About 12 km east towards Palau, 15 minutes by car.
The only beach in the area always sheltered from the mistral wind: the right pick on windy days. Equipped beach.
Monti Russu
West towards Aglientu (about 20 km, 25 minutes by car); last stretch on foot along a path.
A wonderful beach immersed in nature. Unequipped beach.
Tip: Bring water and everything you need — there are no services on the beach.
Naraconieddu and Lu Littaroni
Vignola area, about 18 km west, 25 minutes by car.
A very long white beach, one of the widest on the coast. Includes a Bau Beach (for travellers with dogs).
Tip: Even with services available, bring plenty of water.
Rena Majore
About 13 km west along the coast, 15 minutes by car.
When the mistral spares them, the beaches at Rena Majore are among the most beautiful in the area. Equipped beach with the famous 'Paradise' beach club.
Spiaggia di Vignola
About 17 km west along the coast, 20 minutes by car.
Distinctive for its houses opening directly onto the beach: a tiny fishing village worth visiting at least once.
La Marmorata
About 6 km east, 10 minutes by car or bicycle along the panoramic road.
Fine white sand and turquoise sea. Quieter than Rena Bianca.
Tip: Lovely early in the morning, when it's almost deserted.
La Maddalena archipelago beaches
Embark from Palau harbour (about 30 minutes by car), then ferry or boat trip.
Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli, Cala Coticcio on Caprera, Spargi: paradise an hour by boat away.
Tip: Day excursions leave every morning from Palau harbour.
02
Don't miss in town
Torre di Longonsardo
A 16th-century Spanish tower on a sea cliff. Memorable sunsets and the best vantage point onto Corsica.
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
The town's living room, one minute from the houses. Cafés, ice-cream parlours, the evening passeggiata, and the start of Via Garibaldi, the commercial heart.
Santa Teresa harbour
Ferries to Bonifacio, in Corsica: a 50-minute crossing and an unforgettable day.
Historic centre
Narrow streets, white-washed houses, granite stairways. Best discovered on foot, slowly, in the cooler hours.
03
Recommended tables
Not the usual tourist spots, but the places we actually go ourselves — personally reviewed by me! Price ranges are indicative.
Santa Teresa Gallura
Da Thomas
€€€In the centre of Santa Teresa, a few steps from the houses: reachable on foot.
My favourite, one of the top restaurants in northern Sardinia. Refined cuisine, top-tier wine list, capable and warm staff. Save room for dessert.
“I've been coming to Santa Teresa for five years, and if there's one place with no rivals it's Thomas: the flavour and quality of the food, the excellent wine list, capable and competent staff. It can hold its own against many renowned restaurants.”Read the review ↗
Mediterraneo
€In the centre of Santa Teresa, reachable on foot.
A surprise: looks like a typical tourist spot, in fact it's among the most professional in town. Excellent seafood pasta and crudos.
“The unexpected touch of class: when you walk past it looks like the classic tourist restaurant, and instead there's great professionalism and quality on the menu. Excellent seafood pasta and very good crudos too.”Read the review ↗
Pizzeria Azzurra
€In the centre of Santa Teresa, on foot.
Family-run, open year-round. Fish or pizza on a pleasant terrace, fair value. Perfect for weekday evenings in town.
Boi de Oro — Churrascaria
€€€At Santa Teresa harbour, about 10 minutes on foot from the centre.
At the harbour, same owners as Mediterraneo. A beautiful, welcoming room and courteous, professional staff: a nice change for a sea-view evening.
Marazzino
Pizzeria La Piana
€Marazzino area, about 10 minutes by car to the west.
The best pizza in the area, according to many. Easy-going yet characterful, contained prices. Worth a try at least once.
“Gold medal for the best pizza in the area. The staff are always friendly and the prices truly contained: a very easy evening, in a laid-back but characterful place, with excellent value for money.”Read the review ↗
Saltara
La Saltara
€€€Saltara, inland, about 15 minutes by car.
Much more than a farm-restaurant: refined cooking, exceptional culurgiones and outstanding meat. Not the typical fixed-menu place — a proper restaurant.
“Once again I confirm my 5-star rating: exceptional culurgiones and fantastic meat. Not the usual fixed-menu farm restaurant, but a real, very well-run restaurant. Recommended for a lovely, pleasant evening.”Read the review ↗
Rena Majore
S'Historia
€Rena Majore, about 15 minutes by car to the west.
Wide menu, suited to families and groups. Good first courses, great pizza and meat. Often live music in the small piazza of Rena Majore.
“Always a fixed point in the area. A restaurant with a very wide menu, run by Giovanni, one of the best restaurateurs around: contained prices, good quality, often paired with entertainment.”Read the review ↗
La Tegghia
€Rena Majore, about 15 minutes by car; wonderful at sunset.
A beautiful spot, perfect for sunset. Aperitif format or fixed-menu dinner (recently à la carte too). An experience worth doing once — book well ahead.
Capo Testa
Bocche di Bonifacio
€Capo Testa, about 10 minutes by car (4 km).
A family-run seafood trattoria, fresh fish like it used to be at fair prices. A piece of this area's history.
“A piece of this land's history, born from a family of fishermen: real fresh fish at reasonable prices. Try the Catalan-style monkfish, the seafood risotto and the barracuda in white wine.”Read the review ↗
Costa Smeralda
I Frati Rossi · Porto Cervo
€€€Porto Cervo, Costa Smeralda, about 1 hour by car.
Quality cooking in a curated setting, attentive family management. Try the bottarga carbonara; save room for the desserts, real works of art.
“A great surprise! The place is beautiful and well cared for, the dishes all well executed and the service familiar yet attentive. Highly recommend the bottarga carbonara — be sure to leave room for dessert.”Read the review ↗
Aruana' · Poltu Quatu
€€€Poltu Quatu, Costa Smeralda, about 50 minutes by car.
Churrascaria in a beautiful, well-frequented setting. For a stylish evening without breaking the bank.
04
Experiences not to forget
Boat trip to La Maddalena
The classic day: morning embark from Palau, stops at Cala Coticcio or Budelli, lunch on board, return at sunset.
Bonifacio in a day
Ferry from Santa Teresa, 50-minute crossing. The cliffside citadel, the haute-ville, the harbour. Back by evening.
An evening on the Costa Smeralda
Between Poltu Quatu, Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo. Stylish atmosphere, yacht views and memorable sunsets.
Catamaran to Asinara
A day on a catamaran to the Asinara National Park: white beaches, wild donkeys, crystal-clear seabeds.
Alghero in a day
Stroll along the Catalan ramparts, lunch in the historic centre, end of day on the beaches to the south. About 1h45 by car.
Trekking at Capo Testa
Marked trails through granite formations. Valle della Luna is one of the most stunning walks in the Mediterranean.
Snorkelling and diving
Crystal waters, life-rich seabeds. Local diving centres run trips for beginners and experts alike.
Getting there
Getting there
Olbia airport (Costa Smeralda)
About 60 km, a 1-hour drive. Direct flights from major Italian and European cities. Transfer service available on request.
Santa Teresa di Gallura harbour
Ferries from Bonifacio (Corsica) all year round. Convenient if you arrive from southern France.
Olbia harbour
Ferries from Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia. Bringing your car is recommended for exploring Gallura.
Parking
Via Azuni is a quiet, traffic-free lane. A parking spot is available nearby; instructions are sent before check-in.